ABOUT PATIO TOMATOES
The Patio and Patio Hybrid tomato varieties divulge their gardening instructions in their names. they’re designed for growing on patios, decks, or balconies in containers. They grow to about two feet tall, with many dark green foliages. These dwarf tomatoes are a determinate tomato variety which will be called the perfect container plant and became one among the foremost popular small container tomatoes sold within the U.S. Determinate means they grow compactly and produce fruits that are approximate. Patios even have relatively large fruit among the dwarf tomatoes, averaging about three to four ounces per tomato. Their strong stems and bush-like shape make them perfect for an honest tomato yield right from your patio.
IDEAL SOIL CONDITIONS FOR TOMATOES
When growing dwarf tomatoes in containers, you would like a well-drained, loose, but rich soil. you’ll use potting soil, which is mixed for this purpose or make your own. Mix leaf mold or fine mulch in with some sphagnum, vermiculite, or perlite for a lightening effect which will ensure good drainage. the essential soil that you simply mix these with should be a dark, moist soil like hummus or maybe compost. Add more peat, mulch, or equivalents to heavy compost, though, to make certain it doesn’t retain water too heavily and risk plant disease. The mixture should resemble potting soil when you’re done.
PATIO TOMATOES PLANTING TIME
Patio tomatoes mature about 65 to 70 days from planting, so keep this in mind when planning your start date. If you’ve got a brief season, you’ll want to start out with a nursery-bought seedling in mid-May to urge a hop on the year and make certain you get the foremost out of your plant. If you’ve got the posh of a hotter climate, start Patio seeds in April. Tomatoes need a uniform nighttime temperature of about 55 degrees Fahrenheit to line their fruit, so you ought to begin to ascertain fruit in July, with the simplest harvest in September.
PLANTING PATIO TOMATOES
Your tomatoes will do far better if they’re called at natural sunlight and receiving natural rainfall. If possible, attempt to put them during a patio or balcony location where there’s no roof or overhang to dam sun and rain. Patios expand pretty thickly, so choose a container that’s a minimum of a foot in diameter or width. Plant seeds no quite a 1/4 inch deep, and water and fertilizes immediately. If you begin with seedlings, create a hole large enough for the soil clump the plant arrived in, soak the opening with water, and place the seedling, soil, roots, and everyone, within the hole. arrange the soil around the base of the seedling, and make certain rock bottom leaves aren’t covered in dirt. Fertilize an equivalent day with liquid fertilizer.
PATIO TOMATO CARE
As with all container tomatoes, you’ll get to water them more frequently than garden tomatoes, since the tomato plants are limited to what water is within the pot. a day isn’t too often through the recent parts of the summer. Of course, you don’t get to water the tomatoes if it’s rained an equivalent day and that they are on a roofless patio. However, concentrate on the quantity of sun your Patios are becoming. they will burn and yellow if your watering doesn’t keep step with the extent of direct sun. Fertilize with liquid fertilizer once during the season, once you see fruit starting to form.
HARVESTING PATIO TOMATOES
Pick Patios when the fruits are firm to the touch, and fully colored. They keep best on the vine when the temperature doesn’t go above 75 degrees Fahrenheit, so keep an eye fixed out for softening and ripening quickly in hotter temperatures than that. you’ll need to pick tomatoes a day in extremely popular weather to stay them from going soft. If you’ve got tons of plants, harvesting can become quite a balancing act between what proportion you’ll eat or divulge, and the way many tomatoes are ripe. Of course, if you finish up with quite you’ll use, making spaghetti sauce is usually an honest thanks to storing and luxuriate in tomatoes later. As for final harvesting, when the primary killing frost is predicted in your area, harvest all green mature tomatoes from your plants and convey them inside. Wrap them in newspaper or brown paper and store where they’re not exposed to light. they’re going to ripen slowly over the subsequent month.
TOMATO PESTS & DISEASES
You can avoid most tomato diseases with proper care. Water when needed, confirm soil is well-drained, and if you notice any bugs on the plant, pick or wash them off. If leaves who yellowing or spots, remove the diseased parts immediately. Avoid blight by watering with a narrow-spouted watering pot and directing the water into the soil of the container instead of on the plant’s leaves. Use a balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10 to avoid overloading the plant with any specific mineral. Otherwise, Patio and Patio hybrids should be immune to common tomato problems. Patio VF is that the common disease-resistant variety available.
If you’re unsure that’s what you’ve got, check the nursery or seed catalog information for your plant. The letters VF behind the name mean it’s immune to verticillium and fusarium wilts, while VFN adds resistance to nematodes, and VFNT adds resistance to the mosaic virus. These last two shouldn’t be a drag when container gardening.